9 Days in Italy’s South

Headed to Naples & the Amalfi Coast for your next vacation? I am beyond excited for you! As someone who lived in this part of Italy for over 3 years, I think you are going to fall in love, love, love. I know I sure did!

There is so much to do and see in this southern Italian region. It can be tough to fit everything in just one trip, so I recommend you stay for at least 9 days (longer if you can)!

I’ve broken up your trip into three parts:

1. Naples
2. Pozzuoli & Campi Flegrei
3. Vesuvius & the Amalfi Coast

This will help you get the most of your time here and see the best there is to see!

Buon viaggio amici, vi auguro tante belle cose (happy travels friends, wishing you all the best)!

Part 1: Naples

Dedicate the first 3 days of your trip to Naples herself. As the saying goes “Vedi Napoli e poi muori”. It literally means see Naples and then die, but the sentiment behind the saying is that everyone needs to see Naples in their lifetime!   

I recommend getting a hotel in Chiaia. This part of town is full of great bars & restaurants, is easy to navigate, and has stunning Mediterranean views!

Day 1

Morning

Start your morning with a cappuccino (a drink Italians only have at breakfast) and pastry at Naples’ most famous coffee shop: Gambrinus. Try a Naples staple, the sfogliatella riccia, a flaky shell-shaped pastry with a citrusy ricotta filling. Another personal fav is the graffa, an airy donut with a hint of lemon and dusted with sugar.  

After breakfast, take some photos in Naples’ main square, Piazza Plebiscito, then head to the Teatro di San Carlo for a morning tour. The theater opened in 1737 and is a must while in Naples. If you have the chance, see a show while you are in town (you can purchase tickets online); it is a delightful experience! Just make sure to pack appropriately, the dress code is quite formal.

Afternoon

After your tour, cross the street and awe at the architecture of the Galleria Umberto. This shopping gallery, built in the late 1800s, is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Once you’ve visited the Galleria shops, exit onto Via Toledo and explore the modern shopping street.

For lunch, pizza is a must! For a pizzeria with a bit of history, try nearby Antica Pizzeria Brandi where the classic pizza margherita was invented! Pepperoni pizza lovers, be warned. In Italy, a pepperoni pizza means a pizza with peppers. If you are looking for a pizza with spicy sausage, order a diavola.

After lunch grab a gelato from Naples’ best gelateria: Il Gelato Mennella. If there is a line, trust me when I say it’s worth the wait!

Evening

Head back to Chiaia and take a leisurely afternoon stroll along the lungomare (boardwalk). For some amazing views of the bay and Vesuvius, visit the Castel dell’Ovo (Egg Castle) or the Excelsior hotels’ rooftop bar. Then, do as the locals do and pop into one of the local coffee shops for an afternoon caffè (espresso).

For a true Neapolitan dinner, visit La Casa di Ninetta where they serve traditional dishes. Try local favorites genovese (pasta with meat and onion sauce, simmered all day long) or pasta e patate (a creamy pasta and potato dish). For dessert, have the baba (a small cake soaked in rum), it’s a Naples classic.  

Day 2

Morning

Head to Spaccanapoli and get ready to explore the alleyways of historic Naples. This cobblestone street, with its many shops and bustling crowds, gives a real feel of Neapolitan life.

Next, visit the Museo Cappella Sansevero, just off Spaccanapoli, to see the famous Veiled Christ sculpture (it is an artistic masterpiece). Then, walk to nearby Via San Gregorio Armeno, Naples’ famous Christmas Alley- it is lined with shops selling nativity scenes, tombola games (Neapolitan Christmas bingo), and ornaments!   

Afternoon

For a quiet afternoon of people watching visit Piazza Bellini. This quaint square is a favorite hangout spot for university students and expats. There are many cute cafes in the area, perfect for a light lunch. I love Etto, a vegetarian friendly buffet where you pay by the weight of your plate!

After lunch, see how limoncello is made at local shop, Limonè. They even offer free samples!

Evening

Visit Napoli Sotterranea, an underground tour of the city’s ancient aqueducts, to learn all about the history of the Roman waterways turned WWII bomb shelters. The tour is so good it was even featured on the History Channel. They have nightly English tours at 6pm.

Hungry? Grab some traditional Neapolitan street food for dinner. This part of town is full of stands selling sfizi (fried snacks) like zeppoline (fried dough balls), pizze fritte (fried pizza), croche (fried mashed potatoes), and cuoppo di mare (mixed fried seafood). Or try the pizza portafoglio (literally, pizza wallet), a full size pizza folded into a sandwich. Wash it down with the classic Italian cocktail, an aperol spritz (prosecco with a citrusy liquor), often served in plastic to-go cups!  

Day 3

Morning

Before heading out today, be like a local and have a sandwich made for you at the grocer’s deli counter! I love a panino caprese (fresh mozzarella sandwich with tomato and basil), or go with the classic prosciutto crudo e mozzarella. The deli will wrap up your sandwich for you, so you can easily throw it in your bag!

Next, head to the Museo Archeologico for a sneak preview of the ancient city of Pompeii. The upstairs exhibit has frescoes, tools, pots, and other Pompeii artifacts, along with a giant to-scale model of the entire city. On the first floor, find the Gabinetto Segreto (Secret Cabinet) to see R-rated artwork from places like the city’s brothel.  

Afternoon

Take your sandwich up to the Capodimonte Palace and enjoy a picnic on the palace grounds with a killer view of Naples in the background. If you’re interested you can head inside the palace to see how the royals lived. On the third floor you’ll find a modern art exhibit with Andy Warhol’s famous painting of Vesuvius.

Rather stay outside? Go for a stroll (or even a run) through the king’s old hunting grounds next to the palace.   

Evening

Pay a visit to the Catacombs of San Gennaro, Naples’ old burial grounds and the original resting place of the city’s Patron Saint. The tombs are now empty, but if you’d like to see the bones, you can find them at their new location, the Cemetery of the Fontanelle, just a 30 minute walk from here.

For your last dinner in Naples, make sure you go to Ristorante Ciro a Mergellina (make a reservation to be safe). You MUST get the mozzarella di bufala (the creamiest and most delicious mozzarella on earth), bruschetta, and the insalata di polipo (octopus salad). I promise, you will not be disappointed.   

Go out on the town for some after dinner fun in Chaia. Via Bisignano is a happening bar scene for the local 20 and 30s crowd. Try Ba-Bar for a chic ambience, or Flanigan’s for a 1920s feel.

Part 2: Pozzuoli & Campi Flegrei

It’s time to say arrivederci (until we meet again) to Naples and head to Pozzuoli & Campi Flegrei, a quick 30 minute train ride north. Here you’ll find incredible Greek and Roman ruins, volcanoes, dreamy islands, and a more relaxed atmosphere than the hustle and bustle of downtown Napoli.

Stay here for two days and two nights, and get yourself a hotel in Pozzuoli. You can rent a car if you’d like, but it isn’t necessary for this itinerary.

If you can, stay a few extra days. This will give you time to explore all the ruins in the area, visit both islands, and maybe even take an Italian cooking class at Lago d’Averno!

Day 4

Morning

Marvel at the wonder of nature and visit Pozzuoli’s Solfatara Volcano. This active volcano has boiling mud pits and steaming fumaroles. It got its name for the sulfur smell, but you’d do well to take it all in. The Neapolitans believe the volcano’s aromas do wonders for your health, especially men’s virility.

Afternoon

Next, visit the ruins of the Flavian Amphitheater.This amphitheater is the third largest Roman Amphitheater in all of Italy. It is impeccably preserved, and unlike Rome’s Colosseum, you can even visit the underground sections!

Afterwards, go down to Piazza della Repubblica for some great people watching. Have a pizza at local fav Picea, where you can enjoy your lunch outside and soak up the relaxed Pozzuoli atmosphere.

Evening

Take a stroll up to Rione Terra for beautiful views of the Bay of Pozzuoli. Then walk down Via Napoli, Pozzuoli’s lungomare (boardwalk). Have an afternoon caffè at Exytus, Pozzuoli’s top coffee bar. For those of you with a sweet tooth, try their caffè braziliano (it’s made with a touch of sweetened condensed milk and is delicious). Then walk to Ranieri Lounge Bar at the end of the lungomare to watch the sunset with a wine in hand.

Tonight, gear up for a true Italian fixed price dinner (menu fisso). This means appetizers, first course, second course, dessert, and a whole lotta wine.

For authentic Neapolitan seafood, try the best of the best at Putipù (make reservations to be safe). The price may be a little higher (ranging from 40-50€ per person, depending on the day’s menu), but the food is amazing, and they will bring you more than you could ever eat.     

If you’re not a seafood fan, or just want to go a little easier on your wallet and belly, try Osteria D.O.C. Their menu fisso is only 28-30€ per person, and the portions are a lot more reasonable.

Day 5

Morning/Afternoon

Grab a ferry from the port of Pozzuoli and head to one of the islands. Below I’ve outlined three island itineraries, but you’ll only have time for one. Each itinerary is fun and unique, whichever you choose you can’t go wrong!

Ischia: There’s only one thing you need to do on this island, and that is visit one of the thermal spas. I recommend Poseidon or Negombo, both are amazing. Entrance will give you access to their many thermal pools, natural steam rooms, and saunas. The spas are indoor/outdoor, so you can also enjoy stunning Mediterranean views while lounging in the sun. There are restaurants and other spa services available as well, so prepare to spend the whole day here!

Procida: For those of you looking for that perfect photo of your Italian vacation, Procida is the spot for you. From the port, walk up towards the Santa Margherita Nuova church for the best view of Procida’s colorful marina. After snapping an amazing picture, head to the marina for lunch. Try the zuppa di cozze e fagioli (mussel and bean soup) at Caracalè– hands down one of the best meals I’ve ever had. Then wander to

the beach at Spiaggia di Chiaia, and enjoy the rest of your afternoon soaking in the sun and swimming in the Med.

For the adventurous soul: Rent a gammone (small motorboat), for about 150-200€/day and take it around the islands. This is an absolute blast! You can anchor in the Procida Marina for a photo opp, then head to Ischia’s natural hot springs where a boat taxi will pick you up and take you to shore for lunch. Spend the rest of the afternoon cliff jumping and swimming around the islands!  Gammone rentals need to be made in advance, and are only available in the towns of Monte di Procida and Baia, so you will need a rental car if you choose to do this. Get assistance from your hotel staff to make reservations.

Evening

After a day in the sun, enjoy evening cocktails back in Pozzuoli. For the best cocktails in town, visit steampunk inspired bar The Sign. Owner and barman, Michele Franciosi, learned the art of making cocktails in the heart of London and his creative concoctions are a delight.

Part 3: Vesuvius and the Amalfi Coast

Time to bid farewell to Campi Flegrei and head south for the final days of your Neapolitan vacation. You can make it to Pompeii and the Amalfi Coast by train, but I recommend renting a car as it will maximize your time and give you a bit more freedom.

Day 6

Morning

Get an early start and get ready to see some ruins! This morning you have the choice to visit one of two ancient cities destroyed in Vesuvius’ 79A.D. eruption: Pompeii or Herculaneum. Both cities are accessible by train.

Pompeii: Pompeii is more well known than Herculaneum and a lot larger, but it is also incredibly hot and always packed with tourists. Since it is so busy, it’s in your interest to get here before the gates even open. This will minimize the time you spend waiting in line. I also suggest you opt for a guided tour (and I don’t mean the audio tour). Tourists don’t realize this, but Pompeii is HUGE- it was a city after all. One wrong turn and you could find yourself lost for hours (trust me, I’ve been there).

The bodies at Pompeii ©roamingbull

With a guided tour you will see the main sites and get important historical background. If you choose the “plan your own adventure” route, just make sure you have a map and guidebook handy since signs are hard to come by in the city.

Herculaneum: Herculaneum is kind of Naples’ hidden secret. It is smaller, less crowded, and better preserved than Pompeii since it was covered by mud, not ash. Here you won’t have to worry about crazy lines, and the city is small enough that you can see it all in a few hours. One downside is you won’t get to see the famous preserved bodies that are scattered throughout Pompeii. However, the MAV (Virtual Archeological Museum) is just a 10 minute walk from Herculaneum, and has amazing virtual exhibits showing reconstructions of both cities before and after the volcano struck.

Afternoon

Make reservations for a tasting and lunch at one of Vesuvius’ local wineries. Sorrentino and Cantina del Vesuvio are my favorites. Here you will enjoy local dishes paired with the famous wine of Vesuvius: Lacryma Christi (the tears of Christ). If you do not have a car, ask the wineries about shuttle services when making the reservation.

Evening

After lunch it’s time to put on your Hollywood sunglasses and make your way to the Amalfi Coast! Stay in Sorrento your first two nights, it’s easy to get to and a great jumping off point.

When you arrive in the city, peruse the shops on Via S. Cesareo where you will be offered delicious limoncello, cookie, and chocolate samples. Then watch the sunset with a drink at the Grand Hotel la Favorita’s rooftop bar!

For dinner, order the local specialty: gnocchi alla sorrentina (potato gnocchi with red sauce and mozzarella).

Day 7

Morning

Grab the ferry to Capri from the port of Sorrento and take one of the boat tours around the island to the Blue Grotto (la Grotta Azzurra). You’ll have to pay an extra fee to go into the grotto, but it’s well worth it. Inside the cave blue light dances above and below you. Ask your boat driver if you can jump in for a quick dip! Technically, it is not allowed, but most boat drivers will let you (just be sure to give them a tip).

Afternoon

Take the funicular up to the Piazzetta, Capri’s main square, and enjoy some people watching over lunch. For dessert order the torta caprese, it tastes like a chocolate cake and brownie had a baby and is amazing.   

Evening

Back in Sorrento, enjoy a night of culture and see a show! Canta Napoli is a lovely opera performance, with Napoli’s Pulcinella appearing as a guest throughout the night. Another tourist favorite is the Sorrento Musical Show, a show that features traditional songs and dances of Southern Italy, like the famous tarantella.

Day 8

Morning

Take the Amalfi’s Blue Ribbon Highway and drive to Positano (you can take a bus if you don’t have a car). This will be your home base for the final days of your trip. Make sure to stop at the scenic overlooks along the route and snap the iconic picture of Positano nestled in the cliffs of the Amalfi.

Afternoon/Evening

In town, enjoy a leisurely afternoon soaking in the slow lifestyle of Italy’s south. Walk through piazzas and alleyways, visit local churches, meander into ceramics shops, take a dip in the Med, and breath in the sweet sea air.       

If you’d like a day with more adventure, drive on and explore other Amalfi towns. My favorites are Ravello, Vietri, and Amalfi herself.

 

Day 9

Morning

Before the long plane ride home, take your last day to get out there and stretch your legs by hiking The Path of the Gods (Il Sentiero degli Dei). From Positano, take the bus to Nocelle where you’ll find the trail’s start. (You can walk to Nocelle from Positano, but it involves going up 1,000 stairs so I do not recommend it.)  

The path takes about two and a half hours if you are in good shape, and ends in a town called Bomerano. Whenever I hike the path, I like to go from Nocelle to Bomerano and back, which takes about four to five hours. If that is too much for you, hike for an hour, then turn around and head back to Nocelle. You will still get to enjoy the stunning views!

Afternoon/Evening

Spend the rest of your day taking in the Amalfi Coast and all her beauty before heading home. Relax, have some wine, eat some mozzarella di bufala, and indulge in one more helping of fresh pasta. La vita è bella, no (life is beautiful, isn’t it)?  

More

Check out my Naples & the Amalfi Coast travel page for more restaurants, sites, and tips when visiting this part of Italy!